Click for more info and reviews of this Redline Trailer Suspension Parts: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension-Parts/Redline/APUBR-9.html Check out some similar Trailer Suspension Parts options: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Suspension_Parts-sf-U~Bolt_Kits.aspx https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/user/etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-redline-trailer-suspension-axle-u-bolts-kit-APUBR-9.aspx Howdy there, neighbors, Ian with etrailer here. Today we're gonna be looking at the Redline U-bolt kit for round axles. Let's get into some features, and then that installation. This particular kit is gonna be great for your camper, car hauler or utility trailer. This one is meant for a three-inch round axle. There are options for square axle as well. Some measurements to keep in mind just in case you've got a trailer that's gonna be sitting pretty close to those leaf springs in the center, from the top of the bolt down to the bottom, we've got 7 1/16 inch, and again the 3 inches in the middle here for our spacing for the axle. They are rated from anywhere from 5,200 pounds to 7,000 pounds on that axle. And with those basic features out of the way, let's go ahead and get right into that install. So these leaf springs are pretty rusted. You can see the ones in the rear here have shifted even. So we're gonna need to get these out. With these as rusted out as they are, I'm gonna go ahead and just cut 'em off. I've got a cutting wheel here. Of course, always use safety protection when you're using all that, eyes and ears every time. (cutting wheel buzzing) Now we're gonna go ahead and take these end shackles loose. I've got a 7/8 wrench box end on the back and then a 13/16 to take this front end off. There's gonna be this one, and then two in the middle and one at the end just the same as this on the hangers. (impact driver clacking) (impact driver whirring) Now with all our bolts loose for our end shackles of the springs, they're good to come out. So we'll just slide those out carefully. Just watch out for your axle. Make sure it's well braced 'cause it will shift around. And we'll push both of those outta the way and work on getting this end right here taken off. There's nothing to hold as far as hardware on this outside edge. There'll be a 1 5/16 on the inside. I'm just gonna run the impact to get that off of there for us. (impact driver clacking) Go ahead and drive this out of the center hole. Now we're gonna get our equalizer block in there and that's just gonna slide into place, this wet bolt here just going to sit through and into this square slot. And we're gonna go ahead and get the castle nut on the back side of this equalizer bolt. There is not a torque spec for this, but we're just gonna go snug and then put the cotter pin in. So we want to orient the hole so that it lines up with the slots on the castle nut. Just kind of snug that down. We don't wanna go too hard because the intent is to keep this from binding. It should always be able to move freely and adjust as it goes down the road. So here we're just about snug and almost lined up. We'll just have to do that a little 1/4 turn or 1/8 turn at the time to get that hole to line up. And then slide that cotter key through and bend your tabs, sticking out for the cotter pin, up out of the way. We're gonna go ahead and get this spring hung up here. Easiest way I've found, just kind of worming it in and then rotate into place once we've got at least one side through, lining up that center pin with the hole that is on top of the axle. (spring clanging) Once we've got that into place, we'll just go ahead and get our hardware. And while these are going in for this particular trailer, eyelets are gonna go on the front of this particular spring. Same situation in the rear, eyelets are in the front. So make sure you've got that orientation right. Otherwise you'll have to pull the whole thing apart and start over. Then our shackle bolts are gonna line up with the hole here. They're gonna feed through the face just like when we took 'em off. You may have to get underneath it and apply pressure downwards or left or right to get that hole to line up. The nut is a locking type. You'll see this end has these little hash marks almost. That's where that's going to lock onto our threading on the other side. So one side will allow you to thread it on by hand. And if you're having an issue, it's probably 'cause you've got your nut upside down. And I felt like that was definitely something worth mentioning, so that way you don't destroy any of the nice new hardware you got. And we're gonna go ahead and put our brackets up here, and then the U-bolts will come from underneath, and then slide into the bracket. We'll wanna make sure again that the center pin is lined up and